Flavors of Lent: a route through the city's “cofrades bars”
From the Friday of Sorrows, numerous Sevillian neighborhoods are brimming with activity and festive atmosphere. Each one has its own brotherhood and deep-rooted traditions that are passed down from generation to generation.
From Triana to Macarena, neighbors join together to carefully prepare the processions that wind through their narrow, picturesque streets, adorning balconies with makeshift altars of flowers and candles. In addition, the tapas bars offer their Lenten culinary specialties.
These are our recommendations to live a different Holy Week, far from the more official one that runs through the historic center, an authentic and moving experience that deserves to be lived and celebrated in all its greatness.
1. Casa Ricardo
Casa Ricardo is more than a bar; it is a temple of classic Sevillian tapas. Between its walls adorned with photos of brotherhoods and holy cards that have been left by its customers for decades, the tradition of Sevillian gastronomy is savored. This corner of the neighborhood of San Lorenzo offers a cofrade atmosphere every day of the year and the ambient sound are marchas procesionales.
Its famous ham croquettes are transformed during Lent giving way to cod croquettes, thus maintaining the tradition of not eating meat. This exclusive change occurs only on vigil days (”Miercoles de ceniza” and every Friday of Lent until “Viernes Santo”)
2. La Fresquita
Very close to the Cathedral, in Mateos Gago Street is La Fresquita. This cofrade tavern opened its doors in 1993, since then there are many customers who stop here daily.
The smell of incense, its unmistakable beer shooter with the costalero and the unmistakable sound of the Banda de Cornetas y Tambores de la Centuria Romana de la Macarena are part of the essence of this place. Its bar, witness of countless conversations, offers a selection of traditional tapas such as spinach with chickpeas, veal menudo, meat with tomato or pringá montadito.
3. Matacandela
Matacandela is one of the most recent additions to the wide range of Sevillian cofrades bars. Located in the heart of Seville, this restaurant offers a traditional menu but with a very careful presentation, ideal for those who want to enjoy a typical but refined dish.
The place is meticulously decorated, censers and Nazareno tunics hang from the ceiling, among its walls we find cíngulos, old posters of Holy Week, candelabras and their tables are parihuelas. To eat we recommend the fried cod with tomato, you can also find for dessert pestiños and torrijas throughout the year.
4. La Chicotá
This emblematic bar, located in the heart of La Calzada neighborhood in front of the Caños de Carmona, attracts locals and visitors alike. It opened its doors in 1983, since then it has been the meeting point for “hermanos” and neighbors of San Benito.
In La Chicotá, the countdown to “Martes Santo” is more than a tradition, it is part of its identity and its roots in the daily life of the neighborhood, making it a unique place.
Among its star dishes are the ribs with thyme and its unmistakable cod montadito with salmorejo. This place is also known for its famous snails when the season arrives.
