Sevilla between waters: A historic walk along the Guadalquivir River
Paris has the Seine, London the Thames and Sevilla the Guadalquivir. Many of the great European cities are divided by rivers that decisively mark the rhythm of these enclaves. Sevilla is no exception. The very origin of the city is linked to the geographical position of this river and without it Sevilla would not be Sevilla.
If we look at all those old maps of the city of Sevilla (known as Laudatos Orbis, as they exalted the goodness of the cities) we can see how the river was set in the center of it, becoming a crucial part of the urban configuration and the essence of Sevilla.
The romance of Seville and the Guadalquivir
Although today’s vision of the Guadalquivir has changed a lot and is now seen as smooth waters where you can go kayaking or take a boat ride, its flow has had a great economic and defensive relevance over the centuries. So, before taking a walk along its banks, it is interesting to know a little of its history.
Sevilla’s love for the Guadalquivir dates back to Roman times. At that time the Guadalquivir was known as Betis and gave its name to an entire Roman province, Bétula. During this period it was an important means of communication and trade in the Iberian Peninsula, as it was the only navigable river in the whole territory.
Sevilla, then known as Hispalis, became a thriving urban center thanks to the strategic location they gave to the river. The Romans built numerous infrastructures along the Guadalquivir, including ports, bridges and aqueducts, which facilitated the transport of goods and the connection with other regions of the Roman Empire.
When the peninsula was invaded by the Muslims, the Guadalquivir continued to be an important means of communication and trade in Al-Andalus. It was at this time when it acquired its present name (in Arabic, Guadalquivir can be translated as «big river»).
From the Reconquest to the present day
After the Christian Reconquest, the Guadalquivir played a crucial role in the economy and life of the people of Sevilla. It was at this time that the river and Sevilla experienced their peak. Thanks to the fact that the river was navigable, it was determined that all ships arriving from the Indies had to pass through Sevilla (specifically at the height of the Torre del Oro) so that, in a way, Sevilla became the «capital of the world» with all the riches and merchandise arriving from the «New World».
This period also saw one of the city’s most important milestones: the beginning of the first circumnavigation of the Earth. In 1519, Ferdinand Magellan set sail from Sevilla to Sanlúcar de Barrameda with his ships, thus initiating the epic journey of circumnavigation around the world in the open sea. Crossing the Puente of San Telmo, an armillary sphere can be seen commemorating the starting point of this historic crossing.
Nowadays, the riverbed has undergone a real revolution. In fact, the river now has two courses (one of which surprisingly runs in the opposite direction to the natural course) and its course has changed considerably. One of the most important transformations occurred with the Corta de la Cartuja. Until then, the island of La Cartuja appeared and disappeared depending on the river floods. With the redirection of the riverbed, almost 500 hectares of previously floodable land were reused, which boosted the urban development of Sevilla, including the island of La Cartuja, venue of ‘Expo ’92’.
The river, artery of urban development
In short, the Guadalquivir has been much more than just a watercourse throughout history. It has been a vital passage that has fueled urban development, economic activity and cultural exchange in the city, leaving a deep imprint on the civilizations that have inhabited its banks to this day.
The Guadalquivir currently offers spectacular landscapes where you can stop and take a break from the busy schedule of the day. Finding a quiet space in the coolness of a birch tree is not very difficult. The Paseo de la Virgen de la O, the Chapina Gardens or simply a bench in Betis Street are good places to enjoy the Guadalquivir. Now that you know its history, you will see its waters with different eyes.
